Measuring:
waist-around waist where you would like the pants to fit. My toddler prefers low rise, hip huggers(and even if she didnt thats where the would fall bc she has no waist lol). I make my 6 month old's pants fit 1" over her cloth diaper in the front and back.
rise- from top of waistline in front, down between legs to top of waistline in back.
thigh-around thigh
inseam- from crotch to floor.(not ankle)
foot length(bottom)- from heel to end of big toe.
foot width(top and bottom)- across widest part of foot. For the top you want to measure from the bottom of the foot up over the top to the other side.
foot length(top)- length of foot top.
Materials:
Fleece or wool(recycled or interlock) *If recycled wool sweater sleeves are used you will have less sewing.*
Elastic for ankles and waist if you choose elastic waisted style.
optional knit for top of foot
Cutting Fabric:
**Important**
You want the pants to stretch width wise. I also prefer the feet to stretch length wise.
Fold your fleece/wool in half and cut pants so the stretch is going width wise. For the width measurement i multiply the waist measurement by 1.5" and divide that by 2.(bc you will have 2 pieces) For the length measurement i add 1/2 of the rise to the inseam and add an inch for seams. I cut a rectangle that is 5" wide and 16" long.(Kaela has a 7" inseam and 16" rise. 7" +8" = 15" +1" seam allowance). ****For a cuffed waist you will want this measurement to be 2" smaller than the inseam + 1/2 rise****Kaela's ankle is 5" around so measure down 8" from the top(for the rise) and toper the leg so it is 3" at the ankle(its folded in half so this will be 6"). You will cut 2 of these.
*for recycled wool sweater sleeves you will cut the sleeve at a right ankle to the underarm seam. Trim the length to inseam+ 1/2 rise+ 1". Cut slit on outer seam down 1/2 rise measurement. You can skip down to the sewing part. Adding elastic will be a little trickier but you can skip that step and you can just sew on the feet and add the waistband or elastic.*
Folded your piece should look like this:
Unfolded it will look like this:
For the feet i cut 2 fleece ovals(length=foot length+1", width=foot width=1"). I kind of taper these so the heel is smaller than the toe area.
Then i cut 2 fleece pieces and 2 knit pieces(length=foot top length+1", width = foot top width+1") *knit upper is optional*
Sewing your footies:
1. Attach elastic at ankle. For my 6 month old is sew the elastic 1.5" from the bottom of the leg, for my 2 year old i sew it 2.5" from the bottom of the leg stretching as i go.
2. Sew/serge the leg seam from foot to crotch.
3. Contour the front of the leg on each side. I cut a half circle out 3/4 of an inch from the elastic to the bottom. ONLY ON THE FRONT SIDE.
4. Place one leg inside the other with right sides together. Sew the crotch seam(u shaped).
Pants will look like this:
5. Place the foot part, bottom side up on the table. Place the top piece(upside down) on top. If you choose to have a knit upper it will go here. Place the fleece layer on top. Your upper pieces will be slightly larger than the sole. As you sew make sure you are matching the edges up. This will make the foot have a shoe shape instead of being flat.
6. Turn the "shoe" right side out. with the pants inside out side the shoe inside the bottom of the leg with the top of the foot matched up with the contoured front of the pants.
7. Sew the foot to the bottom of the leg, matching edges. You will need to slide the shoe portion inside the foot. Make sure your edges match. Go slow and adjust as needed.
Pants will look like this:
8. At this point you can either add an encased elastic waist or a cuffed waist band of fleece/wool.
For a cuffed waist measure a piece 1.5" smaller than your waist measurement and 4" wide. You want this piece to stretch length wise. Sew short ends together with right sides together. This will create a tube. Fold tube in half with wrong sides together. Turn pants right side out and place cuff around the waist, matching edges. I line up the seam on the waistband with the back seam of the pants. Sew the cuff on, stretching tight as you go. This will make the waist fit and stretch, but the bum will still be big enough to accomidate cloth booties.
For an elastic waist you will fold the top down 1/2" and stitch all the way around, leaving a 1" gap. Thread elastic through casing, sew ends together and then sew hole closed.
Finished pants:
elastic waisted and cuff waisted pants:
